We heard so many good things about the Seville restaurants and food in Seville that we made it the first stop on our tour around Andalusia. We also dedicated the most time to Seville, making sure we had enough time to research where to eat in Seville Spain to offer recommendations on great restaurants in Seville Spain. We ate a lot of Spanish tapas and drank a lot of wine to put together this Ultimate Seville Food Guide.
Check out more tips in our Ultimate Spain Food Guide – How To Travel in Spain
Ultimate Seville Food Guide
In this Seville food blog, we focus on where to eat the best Seville foods at some of the best places to eat in Seville. We will offer recommendations on traditional places to eat in Spain as well as some options for contemporary tapas in Seville. We also published a Seville food blog that focuses more on what to eat in Seville, including recommendations for the best tapas. In this Seville blog post, we focus more on what it’s like to eat in Sevilla, some of the local dining tips, and really focus on the various Sevilla restaurant options. We also cover some of the best bars in Seville Spain, with a focus on tapas, but also on cocktails. We hope this Seville Food Guide will help you plan your Seville holidays.
*This post contains compensated links. Find more info in my DISCLAIMER.
What is Seville Famous For When it Comes to Seville Food?
One of the main reasons why we traveled to Andalusia, and to Seville, in particular, was to eat tapas! We live in Spain, in the Catalonia region, which is not well-known for tapas. So, I wanted to travel to the Andalusia region, which has a rich history of tapas and traditional Spanish cuisine. I wanted to learn about Seville traditions when it comes to the cuisine.
When many travelers think of Spanish food, they obviously will think of tapas, particularly of patatas bravas (which are a Catalan thing), paella (which is a Valencian thing), and sangria (which is a NYC thing). What many travelers do not realize is that Spanish cuisine differs from region to region. The food in Catalonia is different from Andalusia, which is different from the Basque Country or Galicia.
We wanted to learn about the food in Andalucia and the Seville Spain food scene, to help travelers find the best food Seville offers. In this post, there will be no patatas bravas, no paella, and no sangria. Instead, we focus on the best of Seville cuisine, on what is local or unique to Seville. And we recommend some of the top restaurants in Seville for traditional Spanish tapas and for more contemporary interpretations.
While staying in Seville, we stayed at two different Seville hotels. The first in the Sevilla city center, the other a bit farther out. Hotel Inglaterra on Plaza Nueva, very central located and classically European. Rooms start at €125 a night including breakfast. Check the latest prices here. Hotel Inglaterra is close to all of the Seville traditional food. AC Marriott Seville Ciudad is outside of the city center, close to Plaza Espana. This is a good option if you are renting a car to drive around Andalusia, and they have a hotel pool. Rooms start at €90 a night. It is about a 30-minute walk to the city center, but it was very modern and very quiet. We generally tend to stay with Marriott when we can, and the AC Hotel Brand is a Spanish brand within the Marriott chain. Check the latest prices here. I also like Melia, another Spanish brand. Their Melia Sevilla Colon is well-located, close to the city center, but not in an area that is too busy or noisy. Rooms start at €150 a night. Check the latest prices here.
Recommended Seville Hotels
While staying in Seville, we stayed at two different Seville hotels. The first in the Sevilla city center, the other a bit farther out.
Hotel Inglaterra on Plaza Nueva, very central located and classically European. Rooms start at €125 a night including breakfast. Check the latest prices here. Hotel Inglaterra is close to all of the Seville traditional food.
AC Marriott Seville Ciudad is outside of the city center, close to Plaza Espana. This is a good option if you are renting a car to drive around Andalusia, and they have a hotel pool. Rooms start at €90 a night. It is about a 30-minute walk to the city center, but it was very modern and very quiet. We generally tend to stay with Marriott when we can, and the AC Hotel Brand is a Spanish brand within the Marriott chain. Check the latest prices here.
I also like Melia, another Spanish brand. Their Melia Sevilla Colon is well-located, close to the city center, but not in an area that is too busy or noisy. Rooms start at €150 a night. Check the latest prices here.
Seville Cuisine and Seville Food Tips
Before getting to our guide to the best tapas bars in Seville Spain, it’s important to understand something about the culture of dining in Seville. When asking what is Seville known for, many people answer tapas. But, eating Spanish tapas can be confusing to people who are not used to this way of dining.
First, what is the cost of eating out in Seville Spain? The great thing about eating in Seville is that because the culture is so focused on tapas, rather than big, heavy, traditional Spanish meals, dining out in Seville can be economical. Seville tapas range from €2-5, although some are more expensive. Small Spanish tapas or sandwiches are normally around €2. Both cold and warm tapas can be a little more. We ate an enormous plate of braised oxtail with potatoes just steps away from the Sevilla Cathedral. I ordered a tapa and the plate was huge. I tried to confirm it was a tapa, and indeed it was. The cost? €4.
Second, what is a tapa versus a racion? A tapa is a small plate whereas a racion is a full sized plate, which more equates to what people are used to eating for dinner. Most tapas restaurants will offer a tapa, a ½ racion, or a racion. Not all sizes are available for all dishes, but the menus are pretty clear. We try to only order tapas so that we can try as many dishes as possible. If you are traveling in a group, then a larger size might be better.
Can I eat tapas at a table? Yes, and no. When it comes to Seville traditional food culture, tapas are normally served at the bar, which may or may not have seats. In some good restaurants in Seville, it’s more common to order 2 or more raciones if sitting at a table, particularly during the busy lunch or dinner hours. If you are unsure the rule for a particular Seville tapas restaurant, point to the table and ask “para tapas” or for tapas? If the tables are reserved for more formal meals, they will point you to the bar.
Book One of These Seville Culinary Tours:
More Seville Restaurant Tips – When to Eat in Seville Spain
Eating out in Seville is a lot easier than other cities and towns in Spain. I’ve always struggled with what to eat when in Spain. Lunch in Seville will be served, generally, between 1-4 pm, with the real lunch rush starting at 2 pm. Dinner in Seville is later, with restaurants often opening around 8 pm, and the dinner rush starting at 9 pm or later. Most restaurants are closed in the afternoon. I included below some recommendations for tapas bars in Seville Spain that are open all day, which is often needed for travelers.
Lunch in Spain often includes special deals called a “menu del dia,” normally a three-course meal, with wine or beer, for between €10-15 per person. Lunch in Sevilla, though, is more likely from the same menu as dinner and focused on the typical food in Seville. It’s quite common to eat tapas in Sevilla for lunch.
A Seville dinner menu will more likely include raciones, or full-sized dishes. But, it’s common to start with one or two tapas before moving on to the larger sizes. Raciones may range from €10-20 a plate depending on what the dish is, with some seafood being more expensive. A Sevilla restaurant menu will often be the same for both lunch and dinner.
Looking for the best tapas in Seville? This Seville food blog focuses on some of the best restaurants in Seville Spain. Check out our Ultimate Seville Tapas Guide, which provides tips on what to eat in Seville, how to eat tapas, and how to order at a Sevilla tapas bar.
Seville Where To Eat
The bulk of this Seville travel guide focuses on recommending some of the best places to eat in Seville Spain. We will organize the guide by neighborhood to help you find something to eat even near some of the busiest Seville attractions. Our focus will be on where to eat tapas in Seville, both traditional Spanish tapas and more creative cuisine. But, we will also share some tips on where to go for drinks or craft beer too!
Restaurants in Seville Old Town
Seville Old Town is one of the most touristy parts of the city, which is home to the Cathedral Sevilla, museums, flamenco, and more. In many cities throughout Europe, I try not to eat in the most touristy parts of town. But, what we found, even with restaurants near Seville Cathedral, is that there were good places to eat in Seville. Even on a Friday and Saturday, I felt surrounded by locals or at least domestic tourists from within Spain. Sure, there were other tourists like us, but most of the food was very very good. These places to eat in Seville Spain are all within easy walking distance of the Cathedral Sevilla.
I am organizing this list of the best places in Old Town Seville Spain for tapas by neighborhood as best I can. That way you can hit a few of them in one afternoon or evening, bouncing between one and another, trying to taste as many different Spanish tapas as possible!
Seville Places to Eat – El Centro and Barrio Santa Cruz
El Centro is the area of Seville Old Town that includes Plaza Nueva and Plaza del Salvador, these are the neighborhoods to the north and east of the Cathedral. Seville Old Town also includes Santa Cruz Seville restaurants. Santa Cruz is the old Jewish quarter of Seville. You can just wander the narrow, historic streets and follow the smells. But, we will recommend tapas bars in Seville Spain that should be on your must-eat Seville list. Most importantly, check out Bodega Santa Cruz Seville Spain. We loved the feel of this always-busy tapas bar. Try the berenjenas con miel, or eggplant with honey, and one of their montadito sandwiches, along with a house vermouth. Some of the best tapas Santa Cruz Seville restaurants offer, in part because of the atmosphere.
Bodega Santa Cruz Seville Spain: Located on Calle Rodrigo Caro, Bodega Santa Cruz is also known as Las Columnas for the columns out front. They are also open all day, every day, making it a perfect restaurant for tapas in Seville.
Other recommendations nearby include Cerveceria Bar Giralda Seville, steps away from the Cathedral. I was not expecting much here, but their vermouth was great, along with cazon de adobo, a marinated fish, and rabo de toro, a braised oxtail. Prices are good and tapas portions are huge! I’ve also heard good things about Mama Bistro Seville, but we didn’t get a chance to go. For more internationally-inspired tapas try Seis Restaurant on Plaza Nueva.
Best Restaurants Sevilla – El Arenal
Seville’s El Arenal is also close to the Sevilla Cathedral. It’s the neighborhood towards the west, sandwiched between the Cathedral and the river. Some of the best tapas in Seville Spain can be found in this neighborhood, mostly in traditional and historic Seville tapas bars. We have two favorite tapas bars in El Arenal, one for traditional tapas and the other for more contemporary tapas.
We really enjoyed Bodeguita Romero on Calle Harinas. We stopped in for their famed pringa sandwich but returned on a rainy Sunday morning as soon as they opened and grabbed a spot at the bar. Our goal was to stop for one or two tapas before moving on but just kept eating and eating. We enjoyed papas alinas, a vinegar-based potato salad, and the most amazing carrillera or pork cheek. It made the rainy walk over that much better.
Bodeguita Romero: Open most days for lunch and dinner. Closed on Monday. Get there early to get a seat.
Other recommendations include the very classic Casa Morales, as well as Casa Moreno on Calle Gamazo for the experience of finding a classic bar in the back of a little shop. Go to Casa Moreno for the montadito lomo con cabrales, a pork loin with blue cheese. Check out Bodeguita Antonio Romero also on Calle Gamazo for a piripi sandwich too (not to be confused with it’s more contemporary cousin Antonio Ramiro Reyes).
Our recommendation for more contemporary options, just a few blocks north of the rest of our recommended Sevilla best restaurants in Arenal includes La Brunilda Seville. We stopped in after a few other tapas stops for an afternoon lunch. We couldn’t help ourselves when looking at the menu and tried three very large portions for between €6-10 each. Try the confit de pato con crema de zanahoria especiada y pistachos, or duck confit with spiced carrots and pistachios. Finger-licking good. The cheesy risotto is also very very good.
La Brunilda Restaurant Sevilla: Located on Caller Galera, La Brunilda is open for lunch and dinner most days. They are closed on Monday. It’s a little more pricey than more traditional tapas restaurants in Seville but totally worth it. I would place La Brunilhda on the top of a list of Sevilla best restaurants.
Seville’s Oldest Tapas Bar
Looking for traditional tapas at the oldest tapas bar in Seville, then try El Rinconcillo. A little farther outside of Seville Old Town and behind the Barrio Santa Cruz, El Rinconcillo is about a 15-minute walk from Plaza Nueva. Founded in 1670 it just could be the oldest restaurant in Seville. The menu is very classic, as is the atmosphere. It’s possible to just order a few tapas standing at the bar, or sit down for dinner. Their carrillerra pork cheeks were amazing, and the spinach with garbanzo was good too. But, I liked El Rinconcillo for the atmosphere.
El Rinconcillo Restaurant Seville: Located on Calle Gerona, El Rinconcillo is open all day seven days a week.
Other alternatives a little farther away from the more touristy old town area include Bar Alfalfa Seville. The Bar Alfalfa Seville menu includes more contemporary interpretations of classic tapas. They are well-known for their salmorejo bruschetta as well as other bruschetta variations. A little farther north is Salsamento, which offers contemporary versions of many of Seville’s most traditional montaditos, or sandwiches.
Bars and Restaurants in La Macarena Seville
Looking to get even farther off of the tourist trail in Seville? The residential neighborhood of La Macarena centers around Plaza Alameda, which is only a 15-minute walk from Plaza Nueva. It makes a nice little stroll to see what the “real” Seville looks like. One of the most well-known restaurants for some of the best tapas in Seville Spain is Eslava Restaurant Seville on Calle Eslava. When speaking with friends who live in Seville and mentioning Eslava Seville, I was often met with drool. Although rooted in tradition, Eslava focuses on more contemporary interpretations. The Bar Eslava Seville menu includes classic tapas Seville like salmorejo and boquerones as well as solomillo with cabrales, a blue cheese from Asturias in northern Spain. Try the costilla de cerdo, a pork rib with rosemary and honey, or the grilled artichoke if it’s in season (the fall).
Eslava Restaurant Seville: open most days for lunch and dinner, closes mid-day
Other recommendations for where to go in Seville for tapas in La Macarena include Bodega Dos De Mayo for more traditional tapas and Maquila Bar on Calle Delgado for tapas and craft beer. La Azotea Restaurant Seville is also nearby, which is one of the most well-known tapas restaurants in Seville for contemporary tapas. It has a few locations. I believe the one in La Macarena is the original.
Restaurants Near Plaza de Espana Seville
The Seville restaurant scene around Plaza de Espana is a little bleak. It’s much more of a residential area. There are a couple of kiosks or coffee bars located near Plaza Espana in the park. On the other side of the University of Seville are a strip of restaurants including the sandwich chain 100 Montaditos and the higher end Restaurante Oriza. A block farther is Cerveceria Mary Reyes on Calle del Almirante Lobo, which has the best pringa sandwich we ate in Seville. My recommendation is to eat prior to visiting Plaza Espana, or to bring a snack. It’s one of the few areas of Seville where there are not a lot of options on where to eat in Seville.
Tapas Bars and Restaurants Triana Seville
Triana is the neighborhood just across the river from the tourist center of Seville. It’s a great place to go for a night to avoid the crowds, and just to see how the locals live. I am still surprised at how I felt like even the Seville tapas bars near some of the top Seville attractions were still brimming with locals, especially on a weekend, but Triana offers a somewhat different experience.
Cross the Guadalquiver River on the Isabel II bridge. You will arrive on the main street of Triana, Salle San Jacinot. Although we hit one local restaurant on this street, I felt it was the most touristy of the Triana Seville restaurants. To find some of the best restaurants in Triana Seville, walk left off the main road and wander through the alleyways looking for cute, out-of-the-way places to find the best tapas in Triana Seville.
Tapas Bar Sevilla Recommendations – Triana
Las Golondrinas Tapas Restaurant Triana Seville: They’ve been serving the same tapas for decades. Very traditional, but with nice decor. Get there early. It fills up. What to eat at this Triana tapas bar: solomillo, a grilled sirloin steak.
Cafeteria Santa Ana in Triana: What to eat at this Triana tapas bar: chicharrones, fried pork belly, and vermouth
Cervecaria La Grande in Triana: What to eat at this Triana tapas bar: mojama, a salt-cured tuna, or grilled prawns
Where to Take a Vermouth in Seville
We love vermouth, a sweet and bitter fortified wine that is having a bit of a renaissance in Spain. It’s commonly drunk before lunch, or before dinner, to help open up the appetite. Even more than that, there is a tradition of “taking a vermouth,” which involves having a glass of vermouth with friends and family, along with a few tapas, to catch up. We’ve taken this tradition to heart and take a vermouth almost every day. We made sure we drank a vermouth as much as possible while eating out in Seville because we ate a lot of Seville foods during our stay. We needed to open up our appetite quite a few times!
We drank vermouth at several more traditional Seville tapas bars. But, we also stumbled across a new addition to the scene. This new vermouth bar in Seville carries not just the vermouth of the house, which is typical for tapas bars in Spain, but they carry vermouths from all over Spain. At La Vermutera de Sevilla on Calle Castelar, they are serious about their vermouth. Plus, they are offering amazing tapas, more like a San Sebastian pintxos style. Many of their tapas include skewers of vinegared bites that taste amazing with vermouth. Definitely check them out. If you are hesitant about vermouth, or like something a little sweeter, ask for a white vermouth from Galicia.
Where To Drink Craft Beer in Seville
In the last two years, we’ve been falling in love with craft beer. We try to track down local craft beer in each new city we visit. Our preference is to find locally brewed beer from that city, and if not possible, from the surrounding area. We found a few unique places to drink in Sevilla for beer lovers. This is important for beer drinkers because, generally, every tapas bar in Spain only carries one draft beer. It’s usually a local, mass-produced beer, like Estrella. In Seville, most Sevilla tapas bars serve the local Cruzcampo beer. It’s also important to note that when looking for craft beer in Spain most people refer to craft beer as cerveza artesana. Ask for cerveza artesana in Seville, rather than craft beer.
Where to Drink Beer in Sevilla
Maquila Bar on Calle Delgado: Seville’s only brewpub, which makes its own beer. A friendly staff and some interesting tapas as well. They carry their own beer on tap as well as a few others. It’s a little bit of a walk from the center of Seville, about 15-20 minutes, but worth the walk.
La Jeronima on Calle Jeronimo Hernandez: La Jeronima styles itself a craft beer bar and library. An interesting, slightly hipster feel, but they have a good selection of Spanish and international craft beers.
Cervecaria International: Definitely not a craft beer bar, but they have a huge selection of international beers, both on tap and in the bottle. When you tire of Cruzcampo, this is the place to go.
Where to Drink Cocktails in Seville
We’ve been known to knock back a few cocktails, and definitely some gin and tonics in our time, particularly since moving to Spain. The problem for us is that we are not good at experiencing Spanish or Seville nightlife. We eat too much during the day to stay awake that late. That said, there are a few spots we visited, and others that people recommended, for good cocktails or good gin and tonics in Seville.
Where To Drink Cocktails in Seville
La Gintoneria on Calle del Marques de Paradas: We visited La Gintoneria on a rainy night in Seville and it felt comfy and cozy. They made a proper gin tonic, although didn’t really have a great selection of Andalusian or Spanish artisan gins.
Seis Restaurant on Plaza Nueva: If looking for creative, modern cocktails in Seville this is the place. We challenged them by ordering an Old Fashioned. The girl taking the order didn’t know how to make one, but she tracked down another bartender to make it right. And, he succeeded. To me, that makes a proper cocktail bar. Recognize your limits and rise to meet the challenge.
There are also two hotel bars with rooftop terraces and views of the Cathedral Sevilla, Eme Hotel and Dona Maria’s Bar 17. Also, a local friend recommended Premier Sherry Cocktail Bar, which specializes in making cocktails from the local Sherry wine. We tried to get there the last night, but I was so full I couldn’t make it! Check it out and let me know how it is.
What Are The Top Things To Do in Seville Spain For Food Lovers
In addition to wandering in and out of some of the top restaurants in Seville, while knocking back plate after plate of Spanish tapas, there are some Seville Spain attractions that are perfect for food travelers. Obviously, this depends on how many days in Seville you have free. But here are our recommendations for what to do in Seville if you love food.
Seville Things To Do
I obviously think that the best way to spend your time in Seville is to wander around the tapas bars and the best restaurants in Seville and just simply eat, and maybe drink as well. But there are ways to learn about Spanish food and Seville food traditions while visiting the city.
Wondering What To See in Seville? Get our top recommendations for 12 Things To See in Seville
Take a Food Tour – Seville Spain
This is one of the best ways to learn about a new city. By taking a Seville food tour, you have a knowledgeable Seville guide at your fingertips. The guide to Seville Spain often does more than orchestrate a Seville tapas crawl, but also gives insight into the history and culture of the city. I’ve learned more from my food tour guides in the past than I thought I possible.
Triana Like a Local – Tapas Tour Seville
This Sevilla tapas tour is the best way to explore the Triana neighborhood of Seville. Devour Tours also does a good job of explaining the unique history of Seville and the Triana neighborhood. Tours last about 2.5 to 3 hours and start at €69.
Flamenco and Tapas Tour Sevilla
Any Seville food tour will offer a great deal of tasty Spanish tapas and Seville foods to try, but the Devour Spain Seville Food Tour With Flamenco is something unique. Not only does it include a flamenco show, but also includes a lot of history of the city as well. It’s one thing to just book a Flamenco show, but to learn about its history and meaning is important as well. It’s such a unique performance, of both music and song, and it helps to understand the culture behind the performance. The Devour Tours Flamenco and Food Tour lasts about 4.5-5 hours and starts at €109 per person. It includes the performance, a few tapas stops, and tapas dinner as well.
Book the Flamenco and Seville Food Tour here
More Tips on How to Find the Best Food in Seville
In addition to our recommendations on where to eat in Seville Spain and some of the best tapas bars in Seville, there are a few more food and travel tips we want to share. These tips answer some questions or some commonly misunderstood facts about Spanish food in Seville.
What About Paella Seville?
Every Spanish city has to deal with these types of questions: Where is the best paella in Seville? What is the best paella restaurant in Seville. Here’s the rub, though. Paella is a dish created in Valencia, Spain, about 700 kilometers away from Seville. Sure, many places to eat in Spain outside of Valencia offer paella. It’s often not a specialty though.
Here are my recommendations on how to eat paella in Seville, if you must. First, avoid any restaurant that has a printed, cardboard sign out front with pictures of paella. Generally, those signs are marketing by a frozen paella company and that’s what the restaurant serves. Frozen paella. Second, many of Seville’s restaurant & bar menus include arroz, or rice. Try a tapas size portion to get a taste of Spanish arroz, without going full-in on paella, which is not an Andalusian dish. There are so many great tapas in Seville Spain and so much good food there that there is no need to go hunt down paella!
What is Breakfast in Seville Spain
In our Seville food tips, above, I talk a lot about lunch in Seville and dinner in Seville. But, what about breakfast in Seville? It’s hard for me to make a recommendation on the best breakfast in Seville for a few reasons. One, most hotels in Spain include breakfast, so many travelers don’t need to search for breakfast. The other issue is that most Spaniards don’t eat a large breakfast. Normally, in the morning, people will have a café con leche, or coffee with milk, along with a pastry or juice. A very typical breakfast is a toasted piece of bread drizzled with olive oil, tomatoes, and maybe jamon.
For travelers, the one way to experience breakfast in Seville is by trying churros and chocolate. The hot chocolate is thick and rich, more so than typical hot chocolate in the US. The churros are deep-fried pastries, dipped in sugar or cinnamon sugar. They can be eaten separately or, even better, dip the churro into the chocolate.
Michelin Star Restaurants Seville Spain
It seems many travelers now are focused on looking for Michelin star restaurants to try when they are exploring a new city. Outside of big cities like Barcelona and Madrid, it is hard to find many Michelin Star restaurants, although there are often Michelin recommended restaurants. That doesn’t mean there isn’t great fine dining in Seville, there certainly is. There just aren’t as many Michelin restaurants in Seville. Abantal is the sole Michelin Star Seville restaurant. Check out the Michelin Guide to Seville here.
Want to Learn More About Seville Foods and Spanish Food Traditions?
While traveling in Andalusia, I relied on this book Grape, Olive, Pig: Deep Travels Through Spain’s Food Culture by Matt Goulding to learn not just about Andalusia but as I educate myself about Spanish foods. I think it’s important to learn about Spain foods because I now live in Spain. If you want to learn more, check out this book!
As soon as I returned home, I vowed to spend more time learning how to COOK Spanish food. So, I bought Claudia Roden’s the Food of Spain. The book includes the history of the regional cuisine of Spain as well as hundreds of traditional recipes from all over the country. The book is simply lovely too, with pretty photos and illustrations. I enjoy reading about food while sipping sherry, and yes, actually making some of the recipes too.
How to Get to Seville
We arrived in Seville on the AVE train, the highspeed train that links the major cities of Spain. We pretty much traversed most of Spain on the train, traveling from Girona in the Northeast of Spain, all the way to Seville, with a stop in Barcelona. There is a direct AVE train from Barcelona to Seville, which took about 5 ½ hours. There is also a direct AVE train from Madrid to Seville as well in about 2 1/2-3 hours. You can book train tickets through RENFE, the Spanish rail service.
*This post contains compensated links. Find more info in my DISCLAIMER.
Pin It! Sevilla Food Guide
Amber Hoffman, food and travel writer behind With Husband In Tow, is a recovering attorney and professional eater, with a passion for finding new Food and Drink Destinations. She lives with her husband, Eric, in Girona, Catalonia, Spain. Together over the last 20 years, they have traveled to over 70 countries. Amber is the author of the Food Traveler’s Guide to Emilia Romagna.