Cordoba is a small city located in Andalusia, in Southern Spain. It’s firmly on the tourist trail. Cordoba tourism is focused on its history, mostly around its rich Muslim and Jewish heritage. But, we traveled to Cordoba to explore its dining scene. Even though we live in Spain, we are always looking to learn more about its regional cuisine. The food in Cordoba might not be as impressive as in Seville (which is amazing and hard to beat), but we found some great Cordoba food specialties.
Our Cordoba food guide will include recommendations on what to eat in Cordoba. This includes some typical Spanish food options as well as regional Andalucia food and dishes. In this Cordoba travel guide, we also want to help you find some of the best restaurants in Cordoba Spain. If you are looking for particular information, use the table of contents below to jump right to the section that might answer your question.
Looking for a way to learn more about the food in Cordoba? Or are you short of time and want to learn as much as possible? How about a Cordoba Culinary Tour? This Cordoba Tapas Tour starts at €49 per person and includes some bar hopping around Cordoba with a focus on experiencing the terraces of the city.
Cordoba Food Guide
Typical Cordoba food includes some of the most famous Spanish food dishes like tortilla and jamon, but also incorporates Andalusian cuisine, dishes that are typical of Andalusia and specific to Cordoba. Because of the long history of Muslim rule, and the proximity to Africa, dishes included ingredients like saffron, almonds, and spices not otherwise seen in other areas of Spain.
A few notes to help you find the best typical Spanish food in Cordoba and to understand a typical menu in Cordoba. Most menus include both a tapa and a racion. A tapa is a small plate whereas a racion is a full-sized plate, which more equates to what people are used to eating for dinner. Most tapas restaurants will offer a tapa, a ½ racion (or media racion), or a racion. Not all sizes are available for all dishes, but the menus are pretty clear. We try to only order tapas so that we can try as many Spanish food specialties as possible. If you are traveling in a group, then a larger size might be better.
As for the cost of eating out in Cordoba, the best tapas in Cordoba can cost less than €5 making it very affordable to eat well. Tapas range from €2-7, depending on whether this dish is a vegetable, meat, fish, or seafood. Raciones are a little more expensive, ranging from €7-15. A media racion will fall somewhere in the middle. Unlike in Granada or Seville where it is common to tapa hop from bar to bar, it is more common in Cordoba to choose a restaurant and sit down for lunch and dinner.
Where to Stay in Cordoba
We stayed at the edge of the Jewish Quarter at Hotel Las Casas de La Juderia, which was one of the nicest hotels we stayed at during our two-week journey through Andalusia. It is a series of old noble houses, all renovated impeccably into a boutique hotel. There are lovely courtyards in the center. Each room is decorated to retain the essence of the history of Cordoba. They also had a fabulous hotel breakfast (try the desserts and breakfast, including rice pudding and bread pudding!). Rooms start at €100 a night. Normally I might recommend more than one hotel, but Las Casas de La Juderia offers such a great value for such a lovely hotel property. It’s also only 200 meters from the Great Mosque of Córdoba and the Mezquita.
Find the best prices for Casas de La Juderia here.
What To Eat In Cordoba & The Best Tapas In Cordoba
The first part of our Cordoba Food Guide includes what to eat in Cordoba. Most of these dishes work as either a tapa or a larger racion. For a lunch or dinner, I would recommend 4-5 tapas for two people. When eating at one of the Cordoba bars, it might be more common to eat one or two tapas and move on. At a restaurant, it’s assumed you will eat a full meal, often a mix of tapas and raciones. Dishes that we include on our Spanish food list for Cordoba include mostly Cordobese or Andalusian specialties.
Lechuga al Ajillo – Lettuce with Garlic
I almost never order salads like this when dining out, but I made an exception for this dish (twice). Lechuga al Ajillo translates to lettuce with garlic and that’s just what it is. Often large chunks of lettuce, with grated or diced fried garlic, and drizzled with olive oil and vinegar. It’s the perfect way to start a meal in Cordoba, particularly during the hot summers.
Salmorejo is a typical Andalusia dish that could be considered a cousin of gazpacho, the cold tomato soup that is one of the most famous tapas dishes. In Andalusia, they have salmorejo. Salmorejo is also a cold tomato soup, but it’s entirely different. It is smooth, thick, and creamy, and normally topped with bits of jamon and hard-boiled egg. The main difference is that salmorejo is made with bread and sherry. It’s a must-try Cordoba dish! I ate salmorejo in every city we visited in Andalusia (and I’ve had it at Girona restaurants near home too). I did find the Cordoba version to be a little more textured and almost gritty but still very refreshing.
Mazamorra de Almendras
Mazamnmorra de Almendras takes the idea of Salmorejo and makes it a Cordobese version. Instead of tomatoes, almonds form the base for this cold soup, giving it a different kind of sweetness along with the texture of the almonds. This contemporary version was Mazamorra de Almendras con Gelatina de Pedro Ximenez, meaning it was topped with gelatin made from one of the sweet, local sherry varieties, Pedro Ximenez. The sweetness of the Sherry offset the unique texture of the almond-based cold soup.
The flamenquín is another Cordoba specialty. It includes a slice of pork loin, a slice of jamon, and a piece of cheese, which is rolled up and deep fried. This is certainly not a light dish. More often it is served as a racion, rather than a tapa, and is made for sharing. We ate this version at El Paseo Iberico and it really hit the spot, particularly with a little salmorejo and pickled vegetables on the side. You can find this on almost every tapa bar menu in Cordoba.
Rabo de Toro
Rabo de Toro is oxtail, is a specialty of Andalusia, and seemed to be everywhere in Cordoba. This includes Rabo de Toro stews and croquettas. We tried it at Garum 2.1 in a more contemporary way, an oxtail “churro” where the Rabo de Toro was stuffed inside a thin pastry and deep fried. It was served as churros normally are, with hot chocolate. In this case, the sweetness and richness of the oxtail were offset by the warm, bittersweet chocolate. I am not sure I could eat this regularly (as I can with authentic churros and chocolate) but it was unique for sure. For a more traditional version of oxtail, try the rabo de toro croquettas at El Abanico in the Jewish Quarter.
Berenjenas a la Miel – Fried Eggplant with Honey
This is another Andalusian dish that is a must eat in every city visited in the region. Fried eggplant with honey is simply amazing and makes a perfect tapa. Sometimes the eggplant is sliced and sometimes it is cut into eggplant fingers. It is breaded and deep fried and drizzled with honey. The sweetness of the honey offsets the fried flavor of the vegetable perfectly. This more contemporary version had just a taste of honey, but was topped with salmorejo and scrambled eggs. We also had more traditional versions at Casa El Pisto.
Best Restaurants In Cordoba Spain
There are some great options for both Spanish and Andalusian cuisine in Cordoba. As I mentioned above, Cordoba mostly draws travelers interested in history and architecture, particularly around the famous Mosque. That said, I found Cordoba to be more touristy than Granada and even Seville. One of the main things to do in Seville is to visit the Cathedral, an area filled with tourists. But even near the Cathedral, we found great Seville tapas bars.
I found the dining scene in Cordoba to be a little different, where I felt it to be more touristy. This includes more wait staff trying to get people into a restaurant and more cheesy sandwich boards outside with picture menus than elsewhere in Andalusia. That is why this Cordoba guide focuses on restaurants that were recommended and that seemed to be more frequented by locals. That said, we do offer a few options in the Jewish Quarter and near the Mosque that offer good food and good value.
One other note, unlike Seville and Granada where there is a huge focus on tapas bars, in Cordoba there seemed to be more of a focus on sit-down dining, even if menus included tapas-sized portions. Most restaurants had small tapas bar areas where you can pop in for a drink and a snack, but the overall feel was that sitting down is the norm.
Get More Recommendations – The Top 10 Tripadvisor Cordoba Restaurants
Where to Eat in Cordoba
We offer several recommendations here on where to eat, and in some places what specific dishes to order that we found very tasty. We have higher-end restaurants and more traditional restaurants. Here, I will organize our list of Cordoba restaurant options from contemporary to traditional, which probably also works as saying from more expensive to least expensive. Also, opening days and hours were accurate when this post was published, but things changes ALL the time in Spain. Use it as a guide, but it’s always best to check ahead if there is a particular restaurant you want to try during a short visit.
Restaurante La Regadera Cordoba
La Regadera is a contemporary restaurant only a few minutes walk along the river from the Mezquita. The decor is light and airy, with a view into the kitchen, through an indoor herb garden they use for dishes. We shared one starter and two mains, which was enough for us. Each dish was a portion more than a tapa size, and they were great about letting us share. Each dish was expertly prepared and presented.
To me, this was some of the best food in Cordoba. It’s on the higher end of the price scale, with a meal for two, with a bottle of Spanish wine, for about €100. It was worth it. We visited for lunch, mid-week, and it was slow. For dinner, I would recommend making reservations ahead of time. Try the duck confit Puntalette, which is similar to a risotto, the Suckling Lamb and the Iberian Pork Cheeks. I wanted to try the Suckling Pig, which looked good, but we ran out of space in the belly. It happens. They have an impressive list of Spanish wines, including several from Andalusia. We choose the Garum from Cadiz because we visited the winery a few days before as a day trip from Seville. All in it was a lovely meal.
Restaurante La Regarera Cordoba is at Ronda Isasa 10, down the promenade from the Mezquita and facing the river. They are open for lunch and dinner six days a week. They close on Monday. Dishes range in price from €9-€19.
Garum 2.1 Cordoba
Garum is another great option for more contemporary versions of traditional Andalusian cuisine. Although more expensive than a typical Cordoba tapas bar, it’s not as expensive as La Regadera. In the past, their salmorejo has won the best in Cordoba. They offer a wider-variety of both tapas and raciones. For a lunch, we ordered 4 tapas, which was more than enough food for two. Try their award-winning salmorejo, their award-winning rabo de torro churro, and their cochifrito de lechal, a portion of deep fried suckling pig, including a pig hand. They also have a good selection of Andalusian wines in their small wine cellar.
Garum 2.1 Cordoba is at Calle de San Fernando 120-122, about a 10-minute walk from the Mezquita away from the Jewish Quarter. They are open all day seven days a week, making them a great option for travelers eating at off hours. The menu includes both tapas and raciones, with tapas prices ranging from €3.5-€8 and raciones slightly more.
El Paseo Iberico
What was once El Potrillo, just up the road, is now known as El Paseo Iberico. El Paseo is a rustic bar, filled with locals. It is operated by one man, Argimiro, a jack-of-all-trades, who is the bartender, server, cook, and jamon slicer. Stop in for mega flamenquines, great sliced jamon, and the atmosphere. They are also known for their grilled garlic mushrooms. There is a small bar at the front and some tables in the rear. We sat at the front corner of the bar, where I sat squeezed in next to the hoof of the pata negra, or black-footed Iberian pig, which provided even more atmosphere to this classic bar.
El Paseo Iberico is at Calle Lucano 2. They are about a 10-minute walk from the Mezquita, down a pleasant road with shops, bars, and restaurants.
Taberna San Miguel – Casa El Pisto
Walking away from the Jewish Quarter and the Mezquita, Cordoba’s main shopping street is Calle Jesus Maria. It’s a great street to wander around and perhaps stop for a drink or coffee along the way. At the top of the street, at the corner of Plaza de San Miguel is Casa El Pisto, a great option for very traditional Cordoba tapas. They opened in 1880, so that has to say something. They have a small tapas bar in the front, along with a handful of high-top tables as well as plenty of seating for full meals. The menu offers tapas, media raciones, and raciones for many of the dishes. Try the Lecuga al Ajillo, Costillas Adobo, which are small marinated pork ribs, and the Jaimitos al Limon, which are deep-fried, breaded sardines.
Casa El Pisto is at Plaza de San Miguel 1. They are open for lunch Monday through Saturday and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. They are closed Sunday. Prices range from €3-€10 for tapas and raciones. Another recommended nearby option is Taberna Montillana, but we didn’t get a chance to dine there. They are open all day if you miss the dining hours at Casa El Pisto. They also have a much larger bar area, and a smaller dining area, so they are great for casual tapas.
Casa Pepe de la Juderia
When wondering where to eat in Cordoba Spain for classic Spanish and Andalusian food with a nice atmosphere, this is your choice. It’s classically decorated with white stone walls and a romantic patio for outdoor dining in nicer weather. There is also a small tapas bar in the front for a quick bite, but it is more of a restaurant than a tapas bar. This worked well for us as we visited after taking the evening tour of the Great Mosque of Córdoba and the Mezquita. It’s in the heart of the Jewish Quarter and close to most centrally located Cordoba hotels. Try the fried eggplant with honey, Sephardic lamb, and the salmorejo.
Casa Pepe de la Juderia is at Calle Romero 1. They are open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.
Typical Spanish Food Pro Tip: When researching Cordoba tapas bars and restaurants, many lists included Bodegas Mezquita, which has three locations around the city. Online it looked good, but it broke one of my cardinal food travel rules. I despise when restaurants have staff outside handing out menus and beckoning to travelers to come inside. To me, that’s the first sign of a tourist restaurant. The locals know where to go and don’t need to be enticed to come in. Every time we walked by Bodegas Mezquita (both locations near the mosque) they were beckoning us to come in, so we skipped it.
Bar Santos for Tortilla
There are two places called Bar Santos near the Mosque. The one that is most well-known is Bar Santos on Calle Magistral Gonzales. It’s on the northeast corner of the Mosque. There is also a Taberna Bar Santos on the south end as well, on Calle Corrigidor Luis de la Cerda. We went to both. I thought the tortilla was more moist at Taberna Bar Santos, but on a busy day, I could see Bar Santos being popular as it is more rustic and traditional. They are both well-known for their tortilla, a mixture of egg and potato. My guess is that they are known for their tortilla because of the size. They are huge! Stop in for a snack at either, perhaps ordering one tortilla and a couple of glasses of vermouth to start the day.
Victoria Market Cordoba
Another great option for food travelers is Victoria Market Cordoba. Located just outside of the Jewish Quarter and on the way to the Cordoba train station, this modern Spanish food court offers both typical Spanish dishes and international food at very reasonable prices. The original building dates to the early 19th Century. There are also fresh food stalls to purchase produce, meats, and seafood, but the real treat is the prepared foods.
Victoria Market is in the Jardines de La Victoria and is open all day, seven days a week. It’s a great option for travelers arriving at the train station after lunch and before dinner. That said, the hours are listed as starting at 9:00 am, but the stalls are not really prepared to serve lunch until 1 or 1:30 pm most days.
Michelin Star Restaurants in Cordoba
There are also two Cordoba Michelin Star restaurant options. Unfortunately, we did not have a chance to dine at either. The two restaurants are Restaurante Choco Cordoba and Noor Restaurant. Prices range from €85-€150 per person depending on the menu chosen. They both have the reputation as being some of the best places to eat in Cordoba Spain. If these are a little pricey, then La Regadera Cordoba is a perfect option for more fine dining without going to Michelin Star route.
Cordoba Food Pro Tip: If you are visiting during snail season, which is the Spring, head to El Tercio Viejo for their tapas of snails. Eat the snails and then drink the broth! Seriously. They are famous for them. It’s a simple little bar and kind of out of the way if staying in the Jewish Quarter, so there is no reason to trek out there if not for the snails. Try them!
Wine, Craft Beer, and Drinks in Cordoba
When it comes to Cordoba nightlife, we did not get out much. We are not really night owls, particularly when dinner starts so late. For us, the idea of nightlife is grabbing glasses of Cordoba wine one the way home from dinner. That said, there are loads of bars and cafes perfect for a night out along Calle Jesus Maria, the main shopping street.
We do try to track down local craft beer bars when traveling. Cerveceria Califa is located just off of Calle Jesus Maria. They brew their own beer and have outdoor seating. They also have sandwiches and other foods for a snack. Located on Calle Juan Valera, 3, they are open Friday and Saturday all day but close during the midday during the week. Cerveceria Califa is a great break from the typical tapas bars in Cordoba, which tend to just sell the local commercially-produced beer, like Alhambra.
Also, try Bodegas Guzman in the Jewish Quarter to try the local Cordoba wines and sherry. They also serve plates of cheese and jamon to accompany the Andalusian wines. To ask for something truly local, ask for a glass of DO Montilla-Moriles wines, a sweet dessert wine that is produced similarly to sherry. If you don’t like sweet wines, ask for a “seco” or dry variety.
Want to learn more about the local Cordoba wines? Try this one hour Cordoba Wine Tasting Tour, starting from €26 per person.
How to Learn More About Typical Spanish Food
While traveling through Andalusia, I read Matt Goulding’s Grape, Olive, Pig, which is a great compendium about food and travel in Spain. It covers not only Andalusia, but Catalonia, the Basque Country, Asturias, and more. It’s a great way to learn more about Spanish food and the culture of food in Spain.
As soon as I returned home, I vowed to spend more time learning how to COOK Spanish food. So, I bought Claudia Roden’s the Food of Spain. The book includes the history of the regional cuisine of Spain as well as hundreds of traditional recipes from all over the country. The book is simply lovely too, with pretty photos and illustrations. I enjoy reading about food while sipping sherry, and yes, actually making some of the recipes too.
FAQs – How to Visit Cordoba
This Cordoba travel blog focuses mostly on what and where to eat in Cordoba. For more information, take a look at these questions and additional resources below.
- Where is Cordoba Spain? You can train from Cordoba to Madrid in about two hours and from Cordoba to Seville in only an hour, both on the high-speed train. Cordoba makes a good day trip from Seville as well.
- How do I get from Cordoba to Granada? That’s a much more tricky issue. Yes, you can. But, currently, the train tracks leading into Granada are closed for maintenance. You can purchase a train ticket from Cordoba to Granada, but need to switch to a bus about 2/3 of the way there. Sometimes the transfer times are long and require a “layover” of sorts in the Antequera train station. The journey can take about three hours, even though it doesn’t seem far on the map.
- Can I use the RENFE Spain Rail Pass to travel to Cordoba? We traveled around Spain for two weeks using a RENFE Spain Pass. The RENFE Spain Pass allows travelers to book a train pass for 4, 6, 8, or 10 journeys for a set price, starting at €250. You can book the rail pass before leaving home and then make reservations for seats online, or at the train station, for each journey. The pass is valid for one month from the date of the first journey. Because the journey from Seville is so short, it might make sense to purchase a single ticket. Learn more about the RENFE Spain Pass here.
- Where can I find more information on Cordoba? Check out the website for the Cordoba Spain Tourism Board here. They have a few offices in the city, including one at the Cordoba train station. It’s a great idea to stop and grab a tourist map on arrival. Also, ask if there are any events going on in the city during your stay. Learn more about the history of Cordoba here.
*This post contains compensated links. Find more info in my DISCLAIMER. We were supported during our trip by the Cordoba Tourism Board, but all views are, as always, our own.
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Amber Hoffman, food and travel writer behind With Husband In Tow, is a recovering attorney and professional eater, with a passion for finding new food and drink destinations. She lives with her husband, Eric, in Girona, Catalonia, Spain. Together over the last 20 years, they have traveled to over 70 countries. Amber is the author of the Food Traveler’s Guide to Emilia Romagna.